When I go surfing, usually to my local spot, I always think if I just catch one wave the whole trip is worth it. But some times when its to big or to small and you just don’t catch any thing, I sometimes think just sitting in the ocean is not a bad thing. Sitting there in the ocean on your board and feeling the motion of the sea or watching the sun set makes you feel humble, happy and relaxed. Nature makes you feel small in a good way, most of the times. I’ve read that when we enter the ocean our hart beat slows down. If we hold our breath and get our heads under the water the hart beat slows down up to 10-25% For a skilled free diver it can slow down as much as up to 50% of its normal rhythm. Maybe that’s why we feel so relaxed and happy when we enter the ocean, I don’t know. But what I know is that it makes me feel happy. And the when you sit there feeling like a happy hippie suddenly that wave comes along. You catch it and you are flying down the line, or it feels like that any way. And when the ride is done, you don’t give a shi.. about sunsets or hart beats, you just want to catch one more and then one more….
This picture is shoot in Newquay. Behind the cliff lays Fistral beach. I used my 150-600 mm Tamron lens. The distance between me and the people on the picture makes them look large against the sun. Its a cool effect anyway.
From a lovley evening in Portugal, algarve not far from Lagos.
This is also from Newquay