Thats why I will surf today

You’ve all red it before! “You never regret that you didn’t worked more in your life when you are about to die and you are summing up your life” Most people regret they did not live the life they wanted to, they lived a life that other people expected them to live. Or that they did not spend more time with their kids. Or that they did at least a few things they always dreamed about to do. What does it take to (as we say in Sweden) “get your as out of the wagon” and start living the real life? I guess you have to understand that you’re not on this planet forever and that you eventually will die. Most people knows that they got a limited time on earth, but to really understand it usually takes some overwhelming life experience to get the message.  I not saying that I totally got the “message” but after my father past away recently and my mother nearly did too due to a  stroke (luckily I was there to get her in to the hospital in time) I’ve realized that we will die, so the process have started in my mind and I try to figure out what is important for me. So today I will leave work early and go surfing, because the waves are rolling in at my local spot. Maybe I should bring my kids, but they have to be in school, and they have to live their life as they want to not the way I want to.

It’s strange how afraid we are of dying and not be able to live and still we forget to live. That’s why I’m going surfing today.

 

Sally Fitzgibons “living the dream”? during the womens surf pro tour 2014 in Cascai.

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Jez Browning. A friend that quit his day time job and moved to Portugal and became a surfinstructor. Today he runs his own surfcompany teaching surfers all around the world how to surf.

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2 thoughts on “Thats why I will surf today

  1. I’m so sorry to hear about your father, Staffan — and about your mother’s stroke, too. Thank goodness you were there to help her get some medical attention! You’ve very wisely learned the lesson, though: Live each day to the fullest! And something tells me you won’t have any regrets about this particular day of surfing. 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

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