Some days are better than others, the conditions are better, the water is full of talented surfers. After, what seems just to be a short moment, you realize that you spent hours of taking over thousands pictures. This pictures is from one of those days. Almost every sets of waves that came produced at least one barrel. The beach is u-shaped so I could position myself so I was shooting from the side into the barrel. Another good thing with that is in this beach you also get a really nice backdrop, not seen on this picture. So here I cought Sam Lamiroy in one of his many barrels that day. One day I gonna catch one when I am surfing as well =)
You’ve all red it before! “You never regret that you didn’t worked more in your life when you are about to die and you are summing up your life” Most people regret they did not live the life they wanted to, they lived a life that other people expected them to live. Or that they did not spend more time with their kids. Or that they did at least a few things they always dreamed about to do. What does it take to (as we say in Sweden) “get your as out of the wagon” and start living the real life? I guess you have to understand that you’re not on this planet forever and that you eventually will die. Most people knows that they got a limited time on earth, but to really understand it usually takes some overwhelming life experience to get the message. I not saying that I totally got the “message” but after my father past away recently and my mother nearly did too due to a stroke (luckily I was there to get her in to the hospital in time) I’ve realized that we will die, so the process have started in my mind and I try to figure out what is important for me. So today I will leave work early and go surfing, because the waves are rolling in at my local spot. Maybe I should bring my kids, but they have to be in school, and they have to live their life as they want to not the way I want to.
It’s strange how afraid we are of dying and not be able to live and still we forget to live. That’s why I’m going surfing today.
Sally Fitzgibons “living the dream”? during the womens surf pro tour 2014 in Cascai.
Jez Browning. A friend that quit his day time job and moved to Portugal and became a surfinstructor. Today he runs his own surfcompany teaching surfers all around the world how to surf.
This is Emma Locket in a barrel. Looks easy but I haven’t succeed to ride a tube yet, but one day I will. Emma though she did it several times that week.
This is shot at the girls Boot camp with The Surf Experience and with Sam Lamiroy as the Instructor for the camps. In this picture I got really lucky with the light, lighting up Emmas face and also the light shining through the wave. I didn’t have to work with the picture so much in Photo shop, just a little bit cropping and sharpening. The light and the colours was already there. I love to work during the golden hours always gives you that warm nice light.
Emma Lockett is an outdoor instructor from the UK. A really talented, nice and cool person. She does it all, surfing, climbing, down hill, skateboarding, skydiving, cuddling with white sharks etc.