Evening surf at Arrifana

Yesterday after a long day of moving from Luz to Lagos and some surfing as well, I decided to go for a evening surf. My kids and their friends stayed in Lagos and went out for a dinner. There are lots of restaurants in Lagos but they went to my favourite one (one of them) it´s The Green Room. A restaurant that serve really good Mexican food. Me on other hand loaded up my longboard and drew up to Arrifana. It´s a 45 min drive from Lagos. Arrifan is a beautiful town well worth a visit, not only for the surfing. I had a nice evening, mostly small longboard waves, but once in a while some bigger sets came rolling in. I surfed until the sun disappeared behind the hill, the water always feel a little bit sharky after the sun gone down.

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This is Emma Lockett riding a small barrel in Arrifana a couple of years ago. Always liked the light and the backdrops on that beach, perfect for surf photography.

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Portugal again

Time for another trip to Portugal. This time I will bring my kids and they will bring a friend each, total five persons this time. Their friends never been in Portugal and never tried surfing before, so we are hoping for nice small clean waves that suits beginners. When you try to learn someone surfing who never tried it before I always just want them to feel the same enthusiasm and love for surfing as I did the first time I tried it out. I mean, how can you not fall in love with this sport? It´s one of the most greatest thing you can do, sitting in the lineup with your kids and waiting for some waves. Talking about everything and nothing with your kids while you’re waiting for that wave. So I really hope I can show my kids friends what a nice water sport this is. Hopefully I will get back home with some happy kids and lots of new photos.

 

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International women’s day

Yesterday i should have posted pictures of women instead of men doing jiujutsu, but I failed hard. Sorry! So here are some pictures of women being epic and awesome. When it comes to surfing and skateboarding I think they contribute so much to the sport in so many ways. Not to mention how far we have left before we liv in a world with equal opportunities for women and men.

 

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It´s getting closer…

It’s getting closer. The longest surf trip so far in my life is getting closer, and I’m trying to prepare as much as I can. Except from surfing I also will work as a surf photographer on three different boot camps during this trip. Shoot surfing and also having the benefit of being able to surf every day, makes everything great for the moment. One other thing that’s also really great is that my kids will join me for a almost 10 days on this trip, before they have to go back to school. So much fun surfing with your kids. And as they are growing older you don’t have to look after them as much as you used to. They are turning in to your surfing buddies.  They are really nice travelling partners as well, open minded, like to surf, and love to just chill. Last trip I had with my kids was a two week surf trip to Lagos. So nice, would like to do it again next summer.

 

My kids, Sandra and Linus enjoying the surf.

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The photo job is to cover some boot camps at The SurfExperience, starting out with a boot camp for girls. Sam Lamiroy is the surf coach for the boot camps, and a great one as well. Surfing and shooting surfers all day long from early morning until the dark falls. After a week on the boot camp I usually ends up with 10 000 picture that I have to go through an edit the good ones and then send them to the Boot campers. The deal is that they get all the pictures of them surfing. During the day we also (not me) do video recordings of the surfers. In the evening Sam goes through the video material with the boot campers and talk about what they needs to think about etc.

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This is Georgie Timson. An awesome and talented surfer from Newqua. I wouldn’t be surprise if we will see her on the WSL-tour in a couple of years.

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Annie from Sweden. Every time I surf with here I get amazed about how much better she have become.

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Milla from Newqua. OMG lots of laughs when she is around. Except of just trying to improve her surfing she also did a serious try of learning Swedish. She did pretty well actually, with surfing and Swedish.

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The group after a long day of surfing. The lines still rolling in in the background as you can see.

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Sam Lamiroy He will teach you every thing you need to know about surfing and some things you didn’t know you need to know about surfing

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So as you can imagine I cant wait…

Thats why I will surf today

You’ve all red it before! “You never regret that you didn’t worked more in your life when you are about to die and you are summing up your life” Most people regret they did not live the life they wanted to, they lived a life that other people expected them to live. Or that they did not spend more time with their kids. Or that they did at least a few things they always dreamed about to do. What does it take to (as we say in Sweden) “get your as out of the wagon” and start living the real life? I guess you have to understand that you’re not on this planet forever and that you eventually will die. Most people knows that they got a limited time on earth, but to really understand it usually takes some overwhelming life experience to get the message.  I not saying that I totally got the “message” but after my father past away recently and my mother nearly did too due to a  stroke (luckily I was there to get her in to the hospital in time) I’ve realized that we will die, so the process have started in my mind and I try to figure out what is important for me. So today I will leave work early and go surfing, because the waves are rolling in at my local spot. Maybe I should bring my kids, but they have to be in school, and they have to live their life as they want to not the way I want to.

It’s strange how afraid we are of dying and not be able to live and still we forget to live. That’s why I’m going surfing today.

 

Sally Fitzgibons “living the dream”? during the womens surf pro tour 2014 in Cascai.

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Jez Browning. A friend that quit his day time job and moved to Portugal and became a surfinstructor. Today he runs his own surfcompany teaching surfers all around the world how to surf.

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Step into liquid

Doing surf photography demands that you get into the water, well maybe not totally true. You can make it from the beach with a decent lens, as I have done so far. For a long time I have wanted to take the step into the sea with my But sooner or later you want to step into the sea with your camera. Last year I bought a water proof Nikon AW1 and did some shooting from the water. But that camera did not really work for me. Dont think the image quality was good enough and I had to send it back after that I got some water into the camera. I have been checking out water housings that are made for surf photography, but they are really  expensive. So I got little bit excited when I found this one. It fits my Nikon D7000 and it got all the controls I need. And the price was in my range of what I can afford.  I had to do some modification on it to get it work properly but now I’m ready to go. Going to Portugal in a couple of months and I will bring with me.

And yes I will start out in small sized waves… water photography is so much more than just shooting pictures.

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This one Emma (waiting for some waves) was shot with my Nikon AW1

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Relaxed in the ocean

When I go surfing, usually to my local spot, I always think if I just catch one wave the whole trip is worth it. But some times when its to big or to small and you just don’t catch any thing, I sometimes think just sitting in the ocean is not a bad thing. Sitting there in the ocean on your board and feeling the motion of the sea or watching the sun set makes you feel humble, happy and relaxed. Nature makes you feel small in a good way, most of the times. I’ve read that when we enter the ocean our hart beat slows down. If we hold our breath and get our heads under the water the hart beat slows down  up to 10-25% For a skilled free diver it can slow down as much as up to 50% of its normal rhythm. Maybe that’s why we feel so relaxed and happy when we enter the ocean, I don’t know. But what I know is that it makes me feel happy. And the when you sit there feeling like a happy hippie suddenly that wave comes along. You catch it and you are flying down the line, or it feels like that any way. And when the ride is done,  you don’t give a shi.. about sunsets or hart beats, you just want to catch one more and then one more….

This picture is shoot in Newquay. Behind the cliff lays Fistral beach. I used my 150-600 mm Tamron lens. The distance between me and the people on the picture makes them look large against the sun. Its a cool effect anyway.

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From a lovley evening in Portugal, algarve not far from Lagos.

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This is also from Newquay

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The Golden Hour

I don’t know how many times I have been sitting on my surfboard in the line-up and realized that the light is getting better and better. You are entering what photographers calls the golden hour. It is the last hour before the sun sets and the light gets soft and warm and the ocean looks like its made of liquid gold. Perfect for photography with other words. And at the same time perfect sized waves rolls in and you are having so much fun surfing with your friends, but the light is so perfect. You also know that your friends and your self would love to have some photos from this moment. Nice waves with nice light that’s almost a guarantee that you will get a couple of really good shots. So what do you do? Well I usually surf as long as I think I still have some time to shot some pictures and then I paddle in grab my camera and start shooting, still wearing my wetsuit.

The golden hour is usually not only one hour it varies through the seasons. Most of the times you get more than one hour, but its the last one that you want. You also have the golden hour in the morning and then it starts from sunrise. I’ve heard that the journal  National Geographic refuses to even look at pictures not shot during those hours, when they are selecting there pictures. If its true or not I don’t know, but they do have some really amazing pictures in their magazine.

 

What do I prefer, surfing or photography? Well I love doing both but if I had to choose one of them it would  be surfing… nothing beats the feeling of surfing. But hey you can do both!

If you are having a photo session in the sunset and you don’t think the light in your picture turns out as you wish, lacking those nice sunset colours. Then you can try to underexpose them a little bit by using faster shutter speed or smaller aperture or both. That usually will do the trick. Or!!! you could just enjoy the moment and just sit there and watch the sun go down. But you are a photographer so that wont happen.

And some pictures I’ve shot after being torn apart between surfing and photography.

 

The beach of Porto de Mos cloes to Lagos, gets really stunning sunsets

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Rowan on his longboard. Rowan works as a surf instructor in Lagos. Great longboard surfer and really laid back person. Cool kid!

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This is the talented and great surfer Emma Hamilton waiting for the next set. Here I swam out to get my pictures. This is from the girls Boot camp at the Surf Experience with Sam Lamiroy.

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This is Manuel Mestres son, Ze Mestre.

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And here I got Jon Pennington running up and down the beach several times, just to get that shot. DSC_0642

 

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